Walla Walla Winery Sold on Wisconsin Oak

Dusted Valley has used Wisconsin Oak for a few vintages now, and has been experimenting with Minnesota and Pennsylvania oak almost since its inception. While Johnson and Braunel were researching Minnesota oak-- which they said they liked the most-- they discovered that all Minnesota oak wasn't necessarily from Minnesota. Some of it was from northern Iowa, some from Wisconsin, and when they sorted the oak out, they were excited by the possibilities that Wisconsin oak offered.

Dusted Valley's Wisconsin oak comes from the 45th parallel, about as far north as American white oak will grow. As such, the shorter growing season and harsh winters make for a tighter-grained barrel. "Our coopers tell us that's as tight an oak as they've ever worked with," said Johnson, which has definite influence on the wine.

The tighter grain gives the barrels what Johnson called "a more delicate imprint," and he said that's evident in the winery's reserve cabernet sauvignon ($45). The vanilla is rich and less like vanilla extract, which Johnson sees in Missouri barrels. In addition, there are notes of cocoa and bittersweet chocolate after the wine has evolved, and less of the dill, herbal and coconut flavors he finds in Missouri barrels.

Vineyard and Winery Management—February 2010